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We live today indebted to McCardell, Cashin, Hawes, Wilkins, and Maxwell, and other women who liberated American fashion from the confines of Parisian design. Independence came in tying, wrapping, storing, harmonizing, and rationalizing that wardrobe. These designers established the modern dress code, letting playsuits and other activewear outfits suffice for casual clothing, allowing pants to enter the wardrobe, and prizing rationalism and versatility in dress, in contradiction to dressing for an occasion or allotment of the day. Fashion in America was logical and answerable to the will of the women who wore it. Implicitly or explicitly, American fashion addressed a democracy, whereas traditional Paris-based fashion was prescriptive and imposed on women, willing or not.
In an earlier time, American fashion had also followed the dictates of Paris, or even copied and pirated specific French designs. Designer sportswear was not modeled on that of Europe, as "modern art" would later be; it was genuinely invented and developed in America. Its designers were not high-end with supplementary lines. The design objective and the business commitment were to sportswear, and the distinctive traits were problem-solving ingenuity and realistic lifestyle applications. Ease of care was most important: summer dresses and outfits, in particular, were chiefly cotton, readily capable of being washed and pressed at home. Closings were simple, practical, and accessible, as the modern woman depended on no personal maid to dress her. American designers prized resourcefulness and the freedom of women who wore the clothing.
Many have argued that the women designers of this time were able to project their own clothing values into a new style. Of course, much of this argument in the 1930s-40s was advanced because there was little or no experience in justifying apparel （服装）on the basis of utility. If Paris was cast aside, the tradition of beauty was also to some degree slighted. Designer sportswear would have to be verified by a standard other than that of pure beauty; the emulation of a designer's life in designer sportswear was a crude version of this relationship. The consumer was ultimately to be mentioned as well, especially by the likes of Dorothy Shaver, who could point to the sales figures at Lord & Taylor.
Could utility alone justify the new ideas of the American designers? Fashion is often regarded as a pursuit of beauty, and some cherished fashion's trivial relationship to the fine arts. What the designers of American sportswear proved was that fashion is a genuine design art, answering to the demanding needs of service. Of course these practical, insightful designers have determined the course of late twentieth- century fashion. They were the pioneers of gender equity, in their useful, adaptable clothing，which was both made for the masses and capable of self-expression.
1
What contribution did the women designers make to American fashion?
A.
They made some improvements on the traditional Parisian design.
B.
They formulated a dress code with distinctive American features.
C.
They came up with a brandnew set of design procedures.
D.
They made originality a top priority in their fashion design.
本题答案：
A
B
C
D
参考答案：
B
系统解析：
由题干中的women designers American fashion定位到首段第三句和第二段第二句。推理判断题。定位句指出，文章首句提到的这些女性设计师确立了现代女装的规则，而名牌的运动装设计并非模仿欧洲设计，而是完全在美国本土创立并发展的，可见这些设计师建立了带有独特美国特征的着装规则，故答案为B。
2
What do we learn about American designer sportswear?
A.
It imitated the European model.
B.
It laid emphasis on women's beauty.
C.
It represented genuine American art.
D.
It was a completely new invention.
本题答案：
A
B
C
D
参考答案：
D
系统解析：
由题干中的American designer sportswear 定位到第二段第二句。推理判断题。定位句指出，名牌的运动装不是模仿欧洲设计，就像后来的“现代艺术”一样，它是真正在美国创立并发展的，可见它是一种全新的创造，故答案为D。
3
What characterized American designer sportswear?
A.
Pursuit of beauty.
B.
Decorative closings.
C.
Ease of care.
D.
Fabric quality.
本题答案：
A
B
C
D
参考答案：
C
系统解析：
由题干中的characterized和American designer sportswear定位到第二段第四句和第五句前半部分。细节辨认题。作者在定位句中指出，美式名牌运动装的突出特点就是解决问题的巧思和现实生活方式的实用性，易于打理是设计的首要考虑，可见这一点是美式名牌运动装的特征，故答案为C。
4
What occurred in the design of women's apparel in America during the 1930s-40s?
A.
A shift of emphasis from beauty to utility.
B.
The emulation of traditional Parisian design.
C.
A search for balance between tradition and novelty.
D.
The involvement of more women in fashion design.
本题答案：
A
B
C
D
参考答案：
A
系统解析：
由题干中的apparel和the 1930s—40s定位到第三段第二、三句。推理判断题。定位句指出，在二十世纪三四十年代，人们以实用性为基础进行服装调整， 这在一定程度上冷落了美学传统。可见这个阶段是从注重美学转变到关注实用性设计，故答案为A。
5
What do we learn about designers of American sportswear?
A.
They catered to the taste of the younger generation.
B.
They radically changed people's concept of beauty.
C.
They advocated equity between men and women.
D.
They became rivals of their Parisian counterparts.
本题答案：
A
B
C
D
参考答案：
C
系统解析：
由题干中的designers of American sportswear 和题文同序原则定位到文章最后三句。推理判断题。定位句指出，美国运动装设计师注重实际，具有洞察力，她们是两性平等的先驱，体现在她们实用、适应性强的服装上，这既适合大众，又能表达自我个性。可见这些设计师赞成男女平等，故答案为C。
Massive rubbish dumps and sprawling landfills constitute one of the more uncomfortable impacts that humans have on wildlife. They have led some birds to give up on migration. Instead of flying thousands of miles in search of food, they make the waste sites their winter feeding grounds.
Researchers in Germany used miniature GPS tags to track the migrations of 70 white storks （鹳）from different sites across Europe and Asia during the first five months of their lives. While many birds travelled along well-known routes to warmer climates, others stopped short and spent the winter on landfills, feeding on food waste, and the multitudes of insects that thrive on the dumps.
In the short-term, the birds seem to benefit from overwintering （过冬）on rubbish dumps. Andrea Flack of the Max Planck Institute found that birds following traditional migration routes were more likely to die than German storks that flew only as far as northern Morocco, and spent the winter there on rubbish dumps. "For the birds it's a very convenient way to get food. There are huge clusters of organic waste they can feed on," said Flack. The meals are not particularly appetising, or even safe. Much of the waste is discarded rotten meat, mixed in with other human debris such as plastic bags and old toys.
"It's very risky. The birds can easily eat pieces of plastic or rubber bands and they can die," said Flack. "And we don't know about the long-term consequences. They might eat something toxic and damage their health. We cannot estimate that yet. "
The scientists tracked white storks from different colonies in Europe and Africa. The Russian, Greek and Polish storks flew as far as South Africa, while those from Spain, Tunisia and Germany flew only as far as the Sahel.
Landfill sites on the Iberian peninsula have long attracted local white storks, but all of the Spanish birds tagged in the study flew across the Sahara desert to the western Sahel. Writing in the journal, the scientists describe how the storks from Germany were clearly affected by the presence of waste sites, with four out of six birds that survived for at least five months overwintering on rubbish dumps in northern Morocco, instead of migrating to the Sahel.
Flack said it was too early to know whether the benefits of plentiful food outweighed the risks of feeding on landfills. But that's not the only uncertainty. Migrating birds affect ecosystems both at home and at their winter destinations, and disrupting the traditional routes could have unexpected side effects. White storks feed on locusts （蝗虫）and other insects that can become pests if their numbers get out of hand. "They provide a useful service," said Flack.
6
What is the impact of rubbish dumps on wildlife?
A.
They have forced white storks to search for safer winter shelters.
B.
They have seriously polluted the places where birds spend winter.
C.
They have accelerated the reproduction of some harmful insects.
D.
They have changed the previous migration habits of certain birds.
本题答案：
A
B
C
D
参考答案：
D
系统解析：
由题干中的the impact of rubbish dumps 和wildlife定位到文章首段第一句。推理判断题。定位句指出，大量的垃圾堆和四处蔓延的垃圾填埋场是人类对野生动物带来的一个更为不良的影响。接下来一句提到，它们已导致一些鸟类放弃迁徙。由此可知，垃圾堆对野生动物造成的影响是它们改变了某些鸟类以前的迁徙习性，故答案为D。
7
What do we learn about birds following the traditional migration routes?
A.
They can multiply at an accelerating rate.
B.
They can better pull through the winter.
C.
They help humans kill harmful insects.
D.
They are more likely to be at risk of dying.
本题答案：
A
B
C
D
参考答案：
D
系统解析：
由题干中的following the traditional migration routes定位到文章第三段第二句。细节辨认题。定位句指出，马克斯一普朗克研究所的安德里亚·弗拉克发现，与只飞到摩洛哥北部并在那里的垃圾堆过冬的德国鹳相比，按照传统迁徙路线飞行的鸟类死亡的可能性更大，故答案为D。
8
What does Andrea Flack say about the birds overwintering on rubbish dumps?
A.
They may end up staying there permanently.
B.
They may eat something harmful.
C.
They may evolve new feeding habits.
D.
They may have trouble getting adequate food.
本题答案：
A
B
C
D
参考答案：
B
系统解析：
根据题干中的Andrea Flack和the birds overwintering on rubbish dumps 以及题文同序原则定位到文章第四段。细节辨认题。定位段指出，弗拉克说道，在垃圾堆里过冬的那些鸟儿很容易吃进去塑料或橡皮筋碎片，并有可能死亡，它们可能会吃到一些有毒的东西，并损害到健康。由此可知，弗拉克认为在垃圾堆里过冬的那些鸟儿可能会吃到有害的东西，故答案为B。
9
What can be inferred about the Spanish birds tagged in the study?
A.
They gradually lose the habit of migrating in winter.
B.
They prefer rubbish dumps far away to those at home.
C.
They are not attracted to the rubbish dumps on their migration routes.
D.
They join the storks from Germany on rubbish dumps in Morocco.
本题答案：
A
B
C
D
参考答案：
C
系统解析：
由题干中的the Spanish birds tagged定位到倒数第二段首句。推理判断题。定位句指出，伊比利亚半岛上的垃圾填埋场长期吸引着当地的白鹳，但这项研究中所有被贴上标签的西班牙白鹳都飞越撒哈拉沙漠来到萨赫勒西部。伊比利亚半岛是西班牙所在地，而萨赫勒西部地处遥远的非洲，由此可知，这项研究中所有被贴上标签的西班牙白鹳未受迁徙路线上垃圾填埋场的干扰，故选C。
10
What is scientists' other concern about white storks feeding on landfills?
A.
The potential harm to the ecosystem.
B.
The genetic change in the stork species.
C.
The spread of epidemics to their homeland.
D.
The damaging effect on bio-diversity.
本题答案：
A
B
C
D
参考答案：
A
系统解析：
由题干中的scientists' other concern和 white storks feeding on landfills 定位到文章最后—段前两句。推理判断题。最后一段第一句指出，要想知道充足食物的好处是否大于垃圾填埋场的风险还为时过早。紧接着第二句表明这并非科学家们唯一不确定的问题。第三句引出另外一个问题： 鸟类的迁徙对其繁殖地和过冬目的地的生态系统都产生了影响，而中断传统路线可能会产生意想不到的副作用。由此可知，对于以垃圾填埋场为生的白鹳，科学家们担心的另一个问题是它们对生态系统的潜在危害，故答案为A。
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